- You can’t take a great photo in a hurry—almost impossible with a tour
- There’s almost always something in your photo you don’t want—mostly people
- Photoshop is your friend—see point 2
- Tripods are overrated
- Zoom lenses are absolutely necessary
- An iPhone can’t replace a good SLR
- Don’t stress over taking too many digital photos
- Photo books are a good thing
Sunday, February 24, 2019
Monday, October 29, 2018
One of the most difficult aspects of floater framing, is centering the canvas stretched photo within the floater frame. This is because there is an arbitrary gap between the photo and frame. I tried several approaches until the current method shown in the figure below. I purchased 1/2" square dowl rods and inserted them in the spaces on all sides of the photo. This is done with the photo facing downward so the the screws can be inserted while the rods are in place. The rods slip out easily when finished.
Sunday, June 24, 2018
I was able to improve my process on my second self-made frame. On my first one I didn’t get the corners cut accurately enough and the mechanical fastening wasn’t done well. I decided to forget the corner joining device in favor of my power stapler. That worked REALLY well. The fast placement of the fasteners kept the frame from moving during stapling. Below is Pointe-du-Hoc in Normandy, France.
Wednesday, November 1, 2017
I was able to purchase high quality frame molding in length to make 16" by 60" frames for my panorama photos mounted as gallery prints. I mitered the ends to fit the photo. Although I bought a corner joiner in order to press fasteners into the corners, I wasn't able to accomplish this due to the hardness of the material--ash. I held the frame together with a band clamp and glued the joints. Then I used 90 degree brackets on the back for rigidity. Below is the finished frame.
Tuesday, January 31, 2017
Monday, September 12, 2016
I bought the new HP T120 printer specially to print 60" long photos. As can be seen in the previous post, the Monet garden came out pretty good. However, I did run across some limitations. The documentation did not support canvas media which is what I use. By not supporting a given type of media, that means that there aren't 'color codes' that tell the printer how to represent colors. In addition, the paper cutter wasn't powerful enough to cut the heavy cotton canvas I had been using. Information from another HP T120 owner indicated that he was able to use a lighter weight polyester woven material. I found that the cutter was able to trim this material. However, I was not pleased with the colors I was getting on a number of different photos. When reading a detailed article on printing in Outdoor Photographer, I ran across a discussion about 'custom color codes,' There are companies that can taylor your printer to your paper. They supply 'targets' that can be printed and sent to these folks which are scanned from which a digital file of codes is created. When the codes are installed on your computer, more accurate colors are printed. I tried several of these companies before I was satisfied with the results. Above is my latest print of the Chateau de Chambord which is framed and on my wall in my home.
Thursday, May 19, 2016
Attempting to print photos up to 65" is not for the faint-of-heart. I wanted to print the panorama of Monet's garden, shown in the previous post, at 16 by 60 inches. Gallery wrapping adds another 4" in each direction. I have been printing with an older 24" printer for several years with some success. I generally print 18 by 24" photos for standard framing. However, even though a sheet of paper 20 by 64" could be fed into the older printer, it failed to initiate a print job. No information was available from HP since the printer was out of warranty. I then bought a slightly newer but used 24" printer which would accommodate a roll of paper. Unfortunately, it was damaged in shipment and couldn't be repaired. I contributed it to Got Junk.